Category Archives: Vet Advice
Heat Stroke in Dogs
Summer is definitely here and many areas are suffering under record high temperatures. You want to enjoy this summer and many more with your dog so it is important that you understand how essential it is to keep your pet cool.
In temperatures of 80 degrees F. or higher a dogs temperature can increase. Without proper fluid intake, a lack of ventilation or direct exposure to hot sun can bring on heat stroke which developes quickly once a dog’s internal temperature reaches 106 degrees F. This is what happens:
A noticeable sign of heat stroke in a dog is the skin is very warm, almost hot to the touch. This is due to the raised body temperature and the inability to cool down.
A dog suffering from heat stroke will have rapid panting and breathing, especially just before the final stages of hyperthermia.
Dogs who have developed heat stroke will likely have a listless appearance or a blank stare with minimal eye movement. They may also appear unresponsive and have an extremely dry tongue.
Dogs who are in the final stages of a heat stroke will unlikely be able to move. They may also have a complete loss of urine and bowel function.
Before death, convulsions or seizures may occur due to the dog’s body going into shock. Once coma occurs, brain damage also sets in and internal organs begin to shut down. The key to survival is to get your dog immediately to a vet at the first signs of heat stroke.
Heat stroke typically occurs in very young, old, sick or overweight dogs. But it can occur in any dog. Use common sense during the hot weather and be sure your dog has somewhere to keep cool. A wading pool in the shade with daily fresh water or ice in his bowl would be good. A constant and adequate supply of fresh, cool water is mandatory. Perhaps bringing your dog into the house during the hottest parts of the day would work for you.
If you take your dog in the car, do NOT leave him there while you go off somewhere. In high temperatures, even with the windows open the interior of a car gets way too hot and can become a death trap.
Also, please know that heat stroke can occur in a dog while in water if they are swimming hard and are surrounded by water that is above 75 degrees F.
Watch for these signs:
Heavy panting
Excessive drooling
increased heart rate
weakness
vomiting
pale gums
bright red tongue
confusion
Please don’t deny your pet fun this summer because you are worried about heat stroke in dogs. Just keep them cool and well hydrated. As I said before use common sense. You know your dog best so you will know when he is too hot and uncomfortable. If he is you can wet him down or bring him into shade or indoors. However, if the above symptoms occur get him to the vet. It is far better to be safe than sorry. Heat stroke in dogs is very serious and is nothing to be cavalier about.
If you go to a park or lake where other dogs are present, be a friend to the pets guardian and the animal by watching for the symptoms of heat stroke in dogs for those dogs too. Your awareness could very well save a dog’s life. Because, if I haven’t made it clear enough already, heat stroke in dogs is a canine killer.
Heartworms in Pets
Since it is getting really close to heartworm season all over the country, I am repostng this informative article for all the pet lovers out there. Keep your animals safe and watch out for heartworms. They are killers.
I received this in an email from The Only Natural Pet Store. It is the best and most succinct explanation of heartworms that I have ever read so I am passing it along to the readers of this blog. Heartworms are a real problem of which all cat and dog owners should be aware. You should also know that there are natural preventatives and treatments that are available.
From The Only Natural Pet Store email:
Heartworms
by Dr. Jean Hofve
Heartworms are a potentially deadly parasite carried by mosquitoes. It has a fairly complicated lifestyle that involves incubation in and transmission by mosquitoes.
Heartworm Life Cycle
Tiny heartworm larvae, called microfilaria, circulate in the blood, and are sucked up by the mosquito when it feeds on an infected host animal. Once inside the mosquito, the larvae must develop through more stages before they can cause infection. For that to occur, outside temperatures must remain above 57 degrees F, day and night, for a minimum of 8 days. The warmer the temperature, the faster the larvae will mature. If the temperature drops below that critical level, larval development will stop; but the larvae don’t die—development will re-start at the same point when the weather warms back up.Larvae reach their infective stage in 8 to 30 days (the latter being the entire lifespan of the average mosquito). In dogs, heartworm’s natural host, the larvae migrate to the heart and eventually develop into adult worms, reproduce, fill the blood with microfilaria, and pass them on to the next mosquito. The maturation process takes 6-7 months.
Once in the bloodstream, the microfilaria migrate to the right side of the heart and attach there, where they can grow into adulthood. It takes microfilaria about 6-7 months to mature into adults and start reproducing. Clinical signs (coughing, tiring easily) are not typically seen before that. Adult worms can live up to 7 years in the dog.
In cats, adult worms can develop, but they cannot reproduce; they take about 9 months to mature, and they tend to live only a year or two. However, adult heartworms are about a foot long, so it only takes 1 or 2 to fill up a cat’s tiny heart and cause serious problems. Most larvae will not mature in a cat; its immune system will kill them. However, the larvae can cause inflammation in the lungs as they migrate; this condition can mimic asthma or bronchitis.
Seasonality
Except for a the warmest parts of the U.S. (mainly in the southeast), heartworms are a completely seasonal problem. There is no reason to give heartworm medicine to most pets year-round (except to make money for those who make and sell it!).In many areas of the country (northern and mountain states, for instance), such warm temperatures simply don’t exist for most of the year, and sustained warm temperatures don’t occur until at least June. In fact, only in Florida and south Texas is year-round heartworm transmission possible. Within 150 miles of the Gulf Coast, heartworm risk exists 9 months out of the year. In the rest of the country, heartworm transmission is possible between 3 and 7 months out of the year. Hawaii and Alaska have each had a few cases of canine heartworm, but the incidence in those states is very low.
Prevention
Heartworm preventative drugs do not kill adult heartworms, but they do kill microfilaria up to a certain stage of development. Currently it is believed that larvae under 6 weeks old are affected. This means that in order to prevent heartworms from reaching adulthood, the preventative can be given up to 6 weeks after the mosquito bite and still work. The recommendation is to give the drugs every 30 days, purportedly because once-a-month dosing is easier for most people to remember (coincidentally, it also sells more drugs). Preventatives should be given starting 4-6 weeks after the earliest possible infection date and continue 4-6 weeks past the last possible infection date. In most states, protection should be continued through November or December. In southern Texas and Florida, year-round preventatives may be needed. Local conditions may vary from year to year.
You can visit t The Only Natural Pet Store on this blog at our Pet Supplies Mall or at this link http://www.fluffyfeet.net/wp/pet-supplies-shop/only-natural-pet-store/ .
I hope your pets stay safe from heartworm. But do check out the natural solutions at The Only Natural Pet Store. Also be sure to take a look at their natural pet foods and other natural remedies.
About Heat Stroke from ASPCA
I received this in my e-mail this morning from the ASPCA. Please protect your pets this summer.
Health Warning: Prevent Heat Stroke in Pets
Pets and parents alike look forward to spending the long, sunny days of summer outdoors, but being overeager in hot weather can spell danger, warn ASPCA experts.
“Even the healthiest pets can suffer from dehydration, heat stroke and sunburn if overexposed to the heat,” says Dr. Lila Miller, ASPCA Vice President of Veterinary Outreach, “and heat stroke can be fatal if not treated promptly.”
Watch out for the following symptoms of overheating in pets: excessive panting or difficulty breathing, drooling, mild weakness, stupor and even collapse. Pets can also suffer from seizures, bloody diarrhea and vomiting, along with an elevated body temperature of over 104 degrees.
Take these simple precautions, provided by ASPCA experts, to help prevent your pet from overheating. And if you suspect your pet is suffering from heat stroke, get help from your veterinarian immediately.
- Avoid dehydration by always having fresh, clean water available and lots of shady places where pets can cool off. When the weather’s extremely hot, keep your pets indoors.
- Give your dog a light summer haircut to help prevent overheating. Shave the hair to a one-inch length, but never down to the skin, as fur offers protection from the sun. Brushing your cat more often than usual can also help prevent problems caused by excessive heat.
- When using sunscreen or insect repellent, be sure the product is labeled specifically for use on animals.
- Never leave an animal alone in a parked vehicle. “On a hot day, a parked car can become a furnace in no time—even with the windows open—which could lead to fatal heat stroke,” says Dr. Louise Murray, Director of Medicine at ASPCA Bergh Memorial Animal Hospital.
Please visit ASPCA.org for our complete list of hot weather safety tips!
Planning for a New Cat or Dog
Ron Hines DVM Ph.D. 4/25/06
Adding a new pet to your family is a joyous occasion that should leave lasting good memories. Try to make it a positive family experience by involving every family member. But first, spend some time in introspection to guarantee that you are making the right decision.
Is this the right time?
Obtaining a new pet is a long-term commitment. Timing is very critical to success. In about twenty percent of the situations I see, factors that motivated clients to obtain a new pet were not be in the pets or the clients long-term interest. We often get pets soon after major life changes. The loss of a former pet, a move to a new home, commitment to a new partner and new children in the family are all common motivational factors. A common error is obtaining a new pet too soon after one of these events occur. How we adapt to the changes brought about by one of these events is unpredictable, so my advice is to wait a year after major life style changes before deciding on a new pet. Once you decide that the time is right make the decision process a thoughtful process. Selecting a pet should never be a spontaneous or spur-of-the-moment decision by a single family member.
Is this the right pet for you?
As important as timing is choice of a pet. Pocket pets such as hamsters, rats and mice have a built in advantage (or disadvantage) of a short life span. Love between a pocket pet and its owner can be as profound as between a larger pet and its owner. This is more dependent on the owner’s ability to grant the pet desired attributes in the relationship than on the pet’s intelligence and innate traits. Pocket pets may be right for you if your life stays in flux or if little scurrying creatures appeal to your nature. They appeal particularly to introspective owners. Pocket pets are also a good first pet for children over the age of ten. They encourage responsibility, stability and maturity. Pocket pets are also great for people with physical or emotional limitations. Dogs, cats, ferrets and rabbits require a longer commitment and, some would say, a deeper bond. Arguably, their ability to return affection and become family members is greater than that of pocket pets. Dogs and cats are truly domesticated meaning that they have evolved to assume significant roles within the family unit. Dogs and cats are remarkable in that they can function as the prime relationship for single adult owners. Ferrets and rabbits also fill these rolls in a smaller group of pet owners. The desire of dogs to please is often greater than a human family member.
Spend time learning about the pet you are thinking of getting. The public library is a good place to begin learning about your potential pet. There are books on the unique characteristics of each pocket pet as well as books on each breed of dogs and cats. The variation between the traits of dog breeds is enormous and greater than between species of animals. Some breeds are renown for their affection, others for their intelligence and yet others for their sensitivity. Once you have read up on the pet, get hands-on contact at a pet store, breeder or at events such as dog and cat shows.
Adapting your home to fit your new pet:
Domesticated pets have a great ability to adapt to new environments. However, it will be up to you to make some changes at home to accommodate your new pet. At least one family member will have to accept the new pet as their responsibility. This includes purchasing food and supplies, training the new pet and seeing to its emotional needs. Furniture within the house will need to be rearranged to pet-proof the house. Thermostats may need adjustment. The yard may need to be fenced and delicate objects placed where they remain safe. Routines will need to be adjusted to meet the pet’s needs. If the pet is a new cat, dog, ferret or rabbit, food and water bowels as well as leashes, combs, collars, toys and bedding need to be purchased.
The special needs of young and older animals:
Obtaining a mature pet has several advantages. Because it’s mature personality is already established an older pet is a known commodity. Every pet has its own idiosyncrasies that are separate from breed and species. If the pet is mature, a short introductory period will tell you much about the pet’s temperament. Within a few days, barking, destructiveness, shy or gregarious nature and emotional demands become apparent in mature pets. Young pets adjust to new home situations more readily than older pets. However, they need more time consuming guidance in adapting to the family’s needs. Housebreaking, leash training, curbing destructive behavior and dominance characteristics all must be molded in immature pets.
Bringing the pet home:
Kittens and puppies ferrets and rabbits are best obtained when they are about eight weeks of age. By this time, they are quite independent and their individual personalities can be judged. Just like people, some animals are extroverts and others more withdrawn and introverted. Choose an individual animal that has characteristics that approximate your own personality. Species imparts basic traits but individual personality is independent of species. To determine the pet’s individual personality, sit quietly in the home that provided the animal. Is this an outgoing youngster that comes to greet newcomers and shows intense interest is its surroundings or is it more reserved and stand-offish? Is it a gregarious clown or a more stoic and reserved companion? Certain puppies and kittens are more fearful of new situations than others. These traits tend to remain for the life of the pet. Some welcome change and new experiences while others withdraw from these situations.
Training pets to be integrated family members:
All domestic animals want to please their owners. Domestication has given them a desire for human companionship. With this desire comes a need to enter the family unit and interact in the social structure in which it is immersed. There are many outcomes to integration and the pet relies on you to indicate how you want the relationship to progress. If you are assertive with the pet it will usually become submissive to you. If you are submissive to the pet it will usually assume an assertive role. Most traits that we identify as bad behavior in pets are attempts by the pet to adjust to a role for which the pet is unsuited.
Common pitfalls:
A common source of stress is differing expectations of the pet from different family members. Pets have a tendency to become closest to a single family member. This can be a source of concern. Pets rely on unspoken cues that indicate the family role that is desired of it. Pets do best when they are not above any human family members in social hierarchy. Once their level in family pecking order is established it becomes very difficult to change. Pets do not do well in leadership roles within the family. They are more comfortable when owners lead and define the boundaries of the relationship. Allowing the least dominant family member to feed and care for the pet help in giving that member a dominant position. It is also important that family members be uniform in their expectations from the pet. For example, if one member enjoys a barking, vocal dog and another does not the pet will be uncertain whether to bark or not.
Bonding to the new pet:
Young immature pets bond more rapidly that mature adults. Try to obtain your new pet when you have several months of uninterrupted time to spend with it. During that time, make the pet the focus of your activity. Do not obtain pets when stressful events are looming on your horizon. Even mature pets develop strong bonds to new owners. Pets key off of your level of interest in them. If the pet is only a small part of your life then the pet is likely to reciprocate in its lack of affection for you.
Introducing a new pet to other family pets:
When you make a new pets the center of your activities do not neglect showing affection to your other pets. New pets must find their place among other pets and they will seek your guidance in forming these relationships. Give them verbal praise and pet and stroke them lavishly when they interact with other pets in the way you desire. Jealousy is a very strong emotion in pets so try to distribute your affection diplomatically. Remember that it may not be the newest pet that needs praise the most.
The new pet in the extended family:
Introduce your new pet to your parents and friends in a formal way. Let these other people in your lives stroke and feed your new pet a treat to help establish a positive relationship. The introduction of a new pet is a good time to mend fences and improve relationships of your own. Pets quickly sense tensions within the extended family. Don’t bring your pets to visit your friends unless you know the visit is appreciated. Like your children, let your pets know they need to be on especially good behavior during visits.
Reinforcing the bond:
Like all relationships the bond between you and your pet will suffer if it is neglected. Pets are very forgiving in their relationships – more so than human beings. It takes no more than a kind word a pat or a stroke to bring happiness to our pets. Reserve an hour a day during which you make the pet the center of your activities. Bring them presents, celebrate their birthdays, and special occasions just as you do for your other family members. Their happiness at these occasions will mirror your own.
Pet First Aid Kit
Pet First Aid Kit
By: Carol Osborne
First, know what is normal. It is important that you be able to assess your pet’s physical condition in order to evaluate his needs, especially since many animals are stoic and will not show pain or discomfort. One of the MOST important factors in evaluating your pet’s condition is to know what is normal for him or her. Take time BEFORE an emergency to check your pet’s normal temperature, pulse, color and respiration.
To take your pet’s temperature, use a rectal thermometer. Put a dab of lubricant on the tip (Vaseline, oil, etc.). Carefully insert the thermometer about 1 inch into the rectum. Keep the thermometer in place for 60 seconds, then remove it and read the temperature. Most dogs and cats have temperatures between 101 and 102 degrees F.
To check pulse, you can often feel the heartbeat by placing your hand on the chest behind the front legs, or by feeling for a pulse along the inside of the back upper leg. The animal’s color can be assessed by looking at the gums or tongue, and the respiration rate can usually be observed by watching the chest.
Hemostat or tweezers — (use to pull out thorns or as a clamp). Hemostats are like fine locking pliers or clamps. They are great for grabbing onto things like sticks, thorns, ticks, or anything else that may be caught in your pet’s mouth or skin.
Thermometer — (normal temp in dogs and cats is 101 to 102 degrees F). A low temperature can indicate a very sick animal or hypothermia. In either case it is very important to warm the animal. A high temperature can indicate infection or hyperthermia. Temperatures above 106 or 107 degrees can cause brain damage to your pet.
Styptic powder — This is most useful for stopping bleeding caused by torn toenails.
Bandage material — A variety of bandage materials can be used to cover wounds to keep them clean, to provide pressure to help stop bleeding, to cover an injured area so your pet doesn’t lick or scratch at it, to act as a temporary tourniquet or muzzle (even docile animals will snap hard if in pain), or to stabilize or protect a body part.
* 1 roll cast padding or soft bandage
* 1 roll adhesive tape or “sticky” bandage
* 1 roll “Vet Wrap”
* Gauze Squares
* 1 roll gauze (can be used for tourniquet, muzzle)
Syrup of Ipecac Use 1 teaspoon per 10 lb. dog to induce vomiting. If your dog does swallow something poisonous, the best treatment is to get it out of the stomach, UNLESS it is something irritating or caustic. Two of the most common poisons seen by veterinarians are rat poison and antifreeze. Ingestion of either of these is an emergency.
Artificial Tears (To soothe or flush eyes). You can carefully use your hemostats to remove sticks or other foreign objects that may get into your pet’s eyes.
Buffered Aspirin (325mg) Use 1 tablet per 50 lbs for sore muscles and pain. This is very effective for reducing inflammation from sore muscles or joints. It can help alleviate your pet’s discomfort if injured. Not all dogs should take aspirin. Dogs may usually have aspirin every 8-12 hours. Cats are very sensitive to aspirin and should never be given aspirin more than once every 72 hours. Tylenol is poisonous to cats. Check with your veterinarian before giving any medications.
Diphenhydramine HCI (25mg) This works well in reducing allergic reactions to insect bites. These reactions can be serious if a pet is stung in the mouth, since swelling could block the windpipe. Check with your veterinarian before using this medication.
Whistle to signal for help if hiking. If you or your pet are injured, you may find this helpful to attract help.
Triple Antibiotic Ointment (for cuts and scrapes). This helps our pet avoid infection, as does bandaging.
Rescue Remedy Give 2 drops on tongue every 5-15 minutes in case of shock or trauma. This is a human homeopathic remedy used to treat stress or shock. This can be used any time an animal is stressed or injured.
Arnica (give 2 drops on tongue every 15 minutes for muscle injury and other trauma). A homeopathic remedy that is very safe for your pet.
Antiseptic Solution for flushing wounds (hydrogen peroxide, chlorhexidine. Use this to clean out wounds before applying antibiotic ointment and bandaging.
Scissors: Use to cut bandages. A knife is also very useful.
Blanket: Animals often go into into shock when injured. A blanket will help keep them warm. It can also double as a stretcher.
Copyright 2007 Dr. Carol Osborne Get FREE pet advice from Dr. Carol at CarolonPets.com/ Visit Dr. Carol’s blog at CarolonPets.com/blog/ Buy PAAWS and VitaLife dog and cat vitamin supplements and other pet health products at DrCarol.com/